DAY 10
(Reading time: 7 minutes)
Do you know what we liked most about Jeju? Leaving it. 😀
On a huge ship, in perfect weather, with views of Hallasan and the surrounding volcanoes slowly fading into the distance as we sailed away… While we arrived on Jeju by plane, leaving by ship felt far more interesting and stylish.
Ferries depart daily from Jeju to several mainland cities in South Korea—Wando, Yeosu, Nokdong, and Mokpo, as well as to selected smaller islands. Our destination was Mokpo. We reserved our ferry tickets at the Jeju Ferry Passenger Terminal a few days in advance, but now we know it wasn’t necessary. The ship is enormous—impossible to imagine it reaching full capacity. By rough estimate, it can carry about 1000 passengers and over 100 vehicles, sailing twice a day, six days a week (except Saturdays). That’s more than enough availability to buy tickets on the day of departure. Still, we opted for peace of mind and only exchanged our reservation for boarding passes on the day of our journey.
Just like trains or planes, you can choose from several ticket classes. In the photo, you can see the astronomical differences in pricing.
Our ship is the one on the middle board (No. 8 / Mokpo), departure at 13:40, with ticket prices listed on the right in red: Economy, VIP, two types of suites, and an accessible room. We paid about 25$ for Economy class, while the top-tier suite cost over 400$… Four and a half hours for that price? Who wouldn’t want that? 😀
For context, here are photos of the pricier rooms from the brochure.
Boarding began an hour before departure, with passengers forming two lines for inspection: one for Koreans and one for foreigners. Our three-person line included—you guessed it—the two of us and a Korean-American guy with a U.S. passport. After tickets and passports were checked, we boarded a shuttle bus for a one-minute ride to the tall boarding ramp, crossed it, entered the ship, and…
…found ourselves in a scene straight out of Titanic (hopefully with a better ending, of course). A staircase, uncannily resembling a modern replica of the ill-fated ship’s, almost begged us to reenact a few legendary scenes: “I saw that in a nickelodeon once, and I always wanted to do it.”
A steward stored our large suitcases near the reception desk while we went to check out the cabins.
Every passenger is assigned a cabin; in Economy class, this means sharing with about 10 others. Ours featured a carpeted area for sitting, lying down, or sleeping; partitions and lockers for personal belongings; electrical outlets; and a TV.
Not that anyone stayed there. The ship offered so many attractions that staying in a cabin would be just a waste of time. With three open decks to explore, most passengers spent their time on the fifth, where all the action was.
Naturally, nearly everyone headed straight for food at first. The simplest, fastest, and most popular choice was grabbing instant noodles from the onboard 7-Eleven, heating them in the microwave around the corner in the dining area, or briefly cooking them on a stove, or just adding hot water.
For a European-style snack or hot coffee, there was Paris Baguette, and for Korean meals, the onboard restaurant was a reliable option.
Being fans of Asian instant noodles, we devoured a hot bowl before departure and then went to admire the views from the ship’s stern. Hallasan bid us farewell in all its majestic glory, still unconquered.
Jeju’s volcanic landscape is unique: hill after hill. Add waterfalls, cliffs, caves, beaches, and countless quirky museums, and you have an island you’ll want to revisit.
But for now, we waved goodbye to Jeju and turned our attention to all the ship had to offer before reaching Mokpo. There was plenty to do. For entertainment, you could watch a movie, sing your heart out in the karaoke room, or play an arcade shooter in the game room.
For relaxation, there were far better spots than the cabins. Cozy chairs and sofas lined the ship’s edges, offering fantastic views of the sea.
Time passed, the ship sailed toward Mokpo, leaving behind a beautiful sunset.
One last glance at the ship’s vehicle deck…
…and we disembarked!
We expected a modest vessel but traveled aboard a colossal ship. It was easily one of the highlights of our second visit to South Korea, and we’d gladly repeat the experience from anywhere to anywhere, anytime.
Mokpo is a city of about 200,000 people in South Jeolla Province—the poorest region of the country, often overlooked by Koreans and tourists alike. During our entire stay, we encountered only one other non-Asian tourist, and the streets were eerily empty, especially after dark.
It’s unclear how the locals justify these proud signs around Mokpo…
…and what three cities outrank it in tourist frequency. 😀
That said, we liked it here. No crowds, no chaos, no lines.
We stayed near the port, hosted by a proactive gentleman who had done his homework on where we were from and prepared a presentation in our language—an unexpected and delightful touch. Each morning, he personally prepared breakfast for us (standard toast, jam, and eggs) but also added a piece of fruit each time—Korean pears or apples, which are quite pricey in South Korea. He took a keen interest in our daily plans and offered advice on how to get around.
We spoke in Korean, though I often struggled to understand him—perhaps due to his dialect or his inability to simplify sentences. We relied heavily on a translation app. While many people praise these apps for their convenience, we’re not fans. First, they’re often inaccurate; second, they rob interactions of genuine human connection. Holding up screens to each other feels worse than trying to communicate through gestures and drawings. Making an effort to speak the local language, even if clumsily, opens hearts and builds connections. Locals appreciate it, and you’ll feel a little closer to them.
By the end of the day, our rumbling stomachs signaled dinnertime. Since we had enjoyed hot ramen on the ship, we happily repeated the experience at a local convenience store.
These stores are our favorites in Asia. Found on virtually every corner, open 24/7, they sell everything “from matches to airplane tickets”, and you can eat there too. Most have a corner for heating up instant noodles or ready meals, along with hot coffee or a 2+1 soda deal, ensuring you’re well taken care of.
-endy-
DONKEY’S SPECIALS:
-mj-